From Egg Coffee to Cao Lau: My Time in Vietnam
Exploring Hanoi, Vietnam and the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
This is a little post about a trip I took in 2023 to the beautiful country of Vietnam. I started my short two-week adventure in the wild city of Hanoi. Landing late at night, drunk from jet lag, I managed to navigate the taxi area to haggle for a ride into town without overpaying too much.
As we weaved through the streets and got closer to the city center, I could already tell this would be a trip to remember. The vibrant markets, the endless motorbikes, and the unique smells wafting from every corner—it felt like no other place I’d ever been. It was overstimulating, if I’m being honest, and almost anxiety-triggering.
The next morning, I woke up excited to explore but oh so tired. My first stop needed to be something easy and chill, so the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum it was. This iconic landmark was built to honor Ho Chi Minh and inaugurated on August 29, 1975. If I remember correctly, the entry fee for foreigners is about $1 or VND25,000—well worth it for the experience.
I hadn’t done much research beforehand, so I didn’t know what to expect. All I knew was that I’d get to see Ho Chi Minh’s embalmed body—kinda creepy but also cool as hell—and it did not disappoint. The long walk to the viewing area is lined with soldiers, ensuring visitors remain respectful every step of the way. No hats, no talking, and nothing they might consider disrespectful is allowed. Trust me, they’ll call you out or even ask you to leave if you don’t follow the rules.
One fascinating thing I learned during my visit was that Ho Chi Minh had requested to be cremated, with his ashes scattered across three regions of Vietnam. However, the government decided to embalm his body and construct the mausoleum to honor his legacy. While it wasn’t what he wanted, I have to say I’m grateful for the opportunity to see this piece of history up close.
If you find yourself in Hanoi, I highly recommend visiting the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum. It’s not just an important historical site—it’s an unforgettable experience.
After visiting the Mausoleum, I decided to try something Hanoi is famous for: egg coffee. If you’ve never heard of it, here’s a quick backstory. Egg coffee was invented in Hanoi during the 1940s by Nguyen Van Giang, a bartender at the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel. The story goes that he created the creamy topping by mixing egg yolk and condensed milk as a substitute for fresh milk, which was in short supply at the time.
Making egg coffee is an art. It starts with brewing a strong cup of Vietnamese coffee using a drip filter, much like traditional Vietnamese coffee. Meanwhile, the egg yolk is whipped with condensed milk until it’s thick and creamy. This velvety mixture is then spooned over the coffee, creating a rich, frothy layer on top.
I have to admit, during my short time in Hanoi, I became completely hooked on egg coffee—and on the charming little cafés I found it in. I’ll share a few of my favorite spots below so you can try them out, too. Just be warned that too much of this drink will for sure have you locked in the bathroom, so enjoy responsibly!
Where to Try the Best Egg Coffee in Hanoi:
After my time in Hanoi, I headed south to an area called Tam Coc, located in Ninh Bình Province. This might just be one of my favorite places in the world so far. Often referred to as the "Halong Bay on land," Tam Coc is quiet, stunning, and everything I love in a destination.
The highlight of the trip was Tràng An, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most breathtaking places I’ve ever visited. When you arrive, you’ll choose one of three routes—1, 2, or 3. I chose Route 2, but all the options cover similar sights; the main difference is how many caves you’ll pass through.
Once you’ve picked a route, you hop into a small boat with other visitors and a driver. You can paddle along to help, or just sit back and enjoy the ride—it’s up to you. In our boat, they grouped the larger people together, and I felt bad for the driver, so I paddled the whole time. Every now and then, I’d glance back and see her lounging around, rowing effortlessly with her feet. It was both impressive and strangely relaxing to watch.
Here are a few images from the park to give you a glimpse of what you’ll see.
After about two hours, the tour around Tràng An came to an end. After sitting in a tiny boat for so long, I was ready to stretch my legs. I hopped on my bike and headed to Mua Cave, where I planned to grab a drink, enjoy some lunch, and hike to the top of a mountain for a stunning view of the surrounding rice fields.
I decided not to eat there—it’s definitely a tourist trap—but don’t let that stop you from visiting. The view alone is absolutely worth it. Trust me.
If you’re looking for a relaxing, quiet trip to Vietnam, I can’t recommend Tam Coc enough. Just like the egg coffee and charming cafés in Hanoi, Tam Coc has its own unique charm. Below, I’ve listed some of my favorite spots to eat and explore in this beautiful area:
The final stop on this trip was Hoi An, primarily to visit My Son Sanctuary, another UNESCO World Heritage Site in Vietnam. What stood out to me most about the Sanctuary is that it was once the religious and political capital of the Champa Kingdom, a civilization that thrived in Vietnam from the 4th to the 15th century. It served as a center for the worship of the god Shiva, making it an important cultural and spiritual site.
I wish I could remember the name of our guide because he was fantastic. If you’re planning to visit, I highly recommend getting a guide unless you can read Vietnamese. The Sanctuary is packed with history that’s worth learning about, and having a guide makes the experience much richer. Plus, you’ll get to watch a performance inspired by the Champa people—it’s definitely worth seeing if that’s your kind of thing.
Hoi An was lovely, but it was by far the most touristy spot on this trip. While it’s easy to find yourself surrounded by vendors selling plastic toys that shoot into the sky or LED-lit sticks for nighttime strolls, there are still quieter pockets where you can escape the crowds. Despite the touristy vibe, the city has a lot to offer, and I had some incredible meals here—one standout being a local dish called Cao Lau.
What makes Cao Lau truly special are the noodles, which are unique to Hoi An and can’t be found anywhere else in the world. The noodles are said to be made with water from a specific well in Hoi An, known as the Ba Le Well. This well is believed to have a unique mineral content that gives the noodles their distinct taste and texture. The flat noodles are reminiscent of Japanese udon, but with their own flavor profile that’s unforgettable.
I fell in love with this dish, and I still find myself dreaming about how different and delicious it was. The best spot I found for Cao Lau was called Cao Lầu Bà Đình.
After Hoi An, I returned to Hanoi to wrap up the trip and catch my flight home. It was a short but unforgettable journey, and while there’s so much more I could share, I’ll keep this post short and sweet. Vietnam is truly an incredible country—the people, the food, and the landscapes are all uniquely special.
I hope you’ve enjoyed reading about my adventure and found some helpful recommendations along the way. If you have any questions or want to share your own experiences, feel free to leave a comment—I’d love to hear from you!